Gibney

The year’s biggest opening has polish, but it’s the execution that makes it sing.

George Kailis has run so hard at this seaside behemoth that it’s tricky to know where to look. The scalloped banquettes, the absinthe fountain, the crisp linen, the aperitivo trolley. And that’s before you even take stock of the breeze coming in off the waves or the tables of beautiful people attentively cared for by dapper waitstaff. The talent is striking too. James Gentile (ex-Bobèche, The Heritage) behind the bar; Luca Fiori (ex-Lulu La Delizia) managing the floor; James Cole Bowen (ex-The Corner Dairy) on the pass. And then there’s group sommelier Nina Throsby, who with Nicole Wewiorski has assembled a wine list that’s as much a pleasure to read as it is to drink from. How do you even begin at Gibney? Do it with a drink, obviously, perhaps a nectarine spritz mixed tableside, then load up on snacks: a new spin on Kilpatrick with lardo and crisp shallots; sweetly creamy crab tart with remoulade; pickled mussels on toast. Take a beat, commune with the wine list (rammed with icons, plus more affordable things you want to drink by the ocean), then move to things from the grill: bavette, say, sauced with black-garlic butter, or Freo swordfish with sea succulents and cider beurre blanc. Oof. This restaurant promises so much, but what’s most thrilling is how often it absolutely, completely delivers.