Gibney

A true amalgamation of style and substance, Gibney’s sublime setting is matched by brilliant service and clever cooking.

In an idyllic location where it would be easy to let the endless ocean views do the heavy lifting, Gibney offers dining that renders the setting almost peripheral. The room, a masterclass in modern luxe-casual, channels classic French and American brasseries, adding an Aussie beach accent through a palette of sage green, smoky blues, sand-coloured tiles, marble and, on the terrace, generous umbrellas, their geometric fringes fluttering in the breeze. The menu follows suit. In the central open kitchen, chef James Cole Bowen playfully and cleverly nails the brief, producing elevated versions of crowd-pleasers like a superb hash brown topped with Oscietra caviar and crème fraîche, or a benchmark oyster Kilpatrick, the powerful preserved chilli and smoked lardo sauce restrained enough to let the Pacific bivalve have its moment. For those feeling flush, there’s top-grade wagyu and Fremantle swordfish with a cider beurre blanc, but the frites, perfectly seasoned, crisp, skin-on morsels teamed with tarragon mayonnaise, are treated with similar care and attention. Add excellent service, unflappable even when the room is heaving, an exciting wine list equally comfortable in the old and new worlds, and deft cocktails fine-tuned to the setting, and you have one of WA’s – and Australia’s – quintessential dining experiences.