Garum

A taste of Rome in one of Perth’s heritage buildings.

An outpost of Guy Grossi’s Melbourne empire, the focus here is on authentic Roman dining, with a mix of ancient and modern technique. Each iteration of the menu features a dish that showcases offal, the quinto quarto (or ‘fifth quarter’) of modern Roman cuisine – perhaps a rich, thick arched cotechino sausage of pork and other parts, or an onion soup with pickled tongue. There’s ripples of Italy through the wine list, alongside labels from Western Australia’s South West. Rest assured, this isn’t a menu that hinges on nostalgia to bring diners to the table. Abrolhos Islands Scallops are brightened with a herb crust, sweet carrots nestled on a velvety bed of sheep’s yoghurt with pops of pomegranate. There’s fish of the day (perhaps Rankin cod offset with creamy borlotti beans), but it’s the cacio e pepe that shows that quality ingredients coupled with tried-and-true technique will always result in a crowd pleaser. Garum is a restaurant that has a strong sense of place. It continues the legacy of the building as a social club, transporting both locals and visitors in the adjoined Westin Hotel to a place that marries the rich culinary history of Rome with the relaxed vibe of Western Australia.