Every city has one. A stalwart posh Italian which changes little decade to decade and is renowned for honest, well-cooked food, waiters in ties, and tiramisu. Typically, these old school Italians attract businessmen, judges, lawyers and chaps who lunch. And so it is with Galileo. With one exception. Chef Vince Soresi’s food is more than just that of a decades-old stalwart. It can hold its head high in any contemporary restaurant environment.

We’re going out on a limb here, but we reckon no one in Perth cooks a better risotto than chef Soresi. Similarly his pastas are cooked with surgical precision. They land on the table at that perfect point between al dente and undercooked, which means you actually get to taste the pasta, not just the sauce.

On occasion, when duck is available, Galileo’s half roast duck is available from the wood-fired rotisserie.

The waiters, all Italian, know their way around a solid, mostly Italian, wine list which they are expert at navigating for those of us not too sure about Italian varietals and producers.

The décor is all sponge-washed walls and somewhat dated, but who cares – it’s part of the Galileo brand.

Not content to make superb risotto and pasta, Galileo is famous for its soft-as-silk veal meatballs, served as an entree or with long pasta and sugo.

Desserts could do with a refresh but what’s not to like about tiramisu and profiteroles?

Is Galileo the best Italian restaurant in town? You bet.