Hundreds of trendy Perth restaurants have come and gone in the last quarter of a century while Fraser’s has continued – a stalwart of the WA food scene and much-loved by tourists, special night outers and lunch hosts who wish to impress. Sure, it’s old school and its menu is consistently conservative, but the cooking is mostly spot on.

When it comes to special occasions and a bit of showing off, locals are equally drawn to box-seat city views, the 28-page wine list and a generous helping of old-school service. Chef Chris Taylor’s produce-driven, no-nonsense menu is bulletproof. Expert staff are solicitous and there when you need them, right down to providing reading glasses for older eyes.

The food and wine lists are housed in hefty leather-bound volumes, but the dishes are relaxed and modern. The menu has headings for small and large share plates and there are many options from the chargrill. As you would expect from Taylor, a driving force in Perth’s food scene, there is little to disappoint in his famed seafood dishes such as yellowfin tataki with avocado wasabi puree and a soy caviar.

Locally sourced duck breast is seared to the point and accented with crunchy green beans. Leave room for something from the chargrill, even if the options veer away from WA to Queensland, a rare lapse in the kitchen’s buy-local ethos. Kilcoy scotch fillet is a winner – well crusted, well rested and tender.

Fraser’s will be around for many more years. It may not capture the headlines these days, but it belongs on your go-to list and in our Top 50.