What with all the exciting innovations happening in the Perth dining scene these days, Frasers is often overlooked by locals drawn to the city’s bright new, fashionable and cutting-edge food offers. If it’s has fallen off your radar, Frasers is an old friend that deserves a second look. Yes, it has a corporate feel to it (it is one of a large chain of restaurants and function centres in Perth, Melbourne and Sydney) but Executive Chef Chris Taylor has done much recently to keep the posh, tourist venue up to date.

The menu is smaller and less staid than it once was and more in keeping with the times. The service is exceptional, particularly wine service, which is knowledgeable and helpful. The ultimate test of a good sommelier is to have them choose wines to pair with individual dishes. Frasers passes the test time and again. It’s a sheer delight to be the beneficiary of such slick professionalism.

Taylor has a genuine passion for Western Australian produce (he is often overseas promoting WA produce as a guest chef at major restaurant and food events). His dishes are straightforward, and all the better for it.

Kingfish sashimi with ponzu, shiso, togarashi and avocado is a smashing dish of clean flavours and spanking fresh fish. Roast Arkady amb rump with puy lemtils is cooked to the point, good and salty and nicely tender. There’s a mushroom risotto and, of course, a charcuterie plate. All of the dishes are accessible and delivered without frills or gimmicks. There’s nowhere to hide with cooking that is so minimal and produce driven – the sign of an accomplished and confident kitchen.

Whether it’s a business lunch, a catch up with wine loving mates or a special occasion and despite the welcome change to menu and cooking, Frasers has maintained its top-end-of-town cred.