The Royal’s flagship puts the fun into fine dining, bringing colour and freshness to the city.

Fleur is nothing if not on theme. Flowers adorn the entrance, portraits feature florals blooming from busts, and the fans spinning overhead recall petals. It’s a fitting backdrop for a venue that brings a little colour to an all too often stuffy fine-dining scene, first with the price point (five courses for $120; not cheap, but not outrageous), then with service, where a young team brings charm and personality.

Wine director and sommelier Daisy Case (herself a former florist) excels with a wine list pitching classics against new-age favourites, then adds a tight sake offer to match the Japanese lean on the menu.

Wine director and sommelier Daisy Case (herself a former florist) excels with a wine list pitching classics against new-age favourites, then adds a tight sake offer to match the Japanese lean on the menu.

Snacks hit hard, with diced Skull Island prawns in a tartlet made fresh with green apple and a skewered kangaroo meatball riffing on tsukune with cured egg yolk for added richness. A two-bite deconstructed sushi roll with rice foam perhaps tries too hard to be clever, but a slice of duck breast for main is spot on, the skin nicely rendered, with apricot and cabbage to cut the richness.

Native ingredients – pepperberry, Davidson’s plum, Geraldton wax – abound, but if there’s a criticism it’s that they don’t always fit. Refine the vision, and a strong newcomer will get even stronger.