Anything but your average suburban fish and chip shop.

When Fins dropped anchor in Bicton Square it brought something quietly transformative. It works first as a proper local fishmongers, with regulars stopping in for the day’s catch, or miso-coated scallops and swordfish bacon sitting alongside a salmon Wellington and oysters gleaming on ice. From there, it’s an easy slide into staying put. Outside, the sun dapples through umbrellas. Take a load off with a schooner of Swan Draught or hit the small but well-pitched wine list. Seth James (ex-Wills Domain) sees that the menu carries the same ease. Start with snacks that feel more at home in a wine bar: thinly sliced scallops on a crisp tostada or line-caught squid from Albany, scored with precision and lightly seared, served with ssamjang that delivers a punch. But if you came for fish and chips, you’re in for some of the best in Perth. Batter forms a bubble-like shell around thick, pearly snapper, delivering serious crunch, while panko-crumbed whiting comes golden, flecked with sea salt. Then there are the things in bread. The prawn po’ boy, brimming with hot, crunchy prawns and cocktail sauce in a bahn mi-like roll. The tuna cheeseburger – a fixture since day one – stacked high, a thick minced tuna patty cloaked in melting American cheese and tucked into brioche. A local for some, a reason for moving for others.