Soulful neighbourhood diner vibes in East Fremantle that will have you coming back time and time again.
Ethos Deli + Dining Room is about many things, from Melissa Palinkas and Susan Whelan’s love of New York deli culture to the Hungarian and German elements of Palinkas’ family tree. All have common threads, but Ethos doesn’t aim to replicate anything to the letter, and works on that basis. Rather, it’s soulful, with a simplicity that’s actually not that simple.
Matzo ball soup, a rarity in WA, could sell itself on its flavour-packed chicken broth alone, let alone wholesome dumplings – it’s so hearty it’s almost medicinal.
Matzo ball soup, a rarity in WA, could sell itself on its flavour-packed chicken broth alone, let alone wholesome dumplings – it’s so hearty it’s almost medicinal. Wagyu steak with rich Diane sauce and heaped local mushrooms may err to chefiness with the meat selection but it’s high on nostalgic feels and again has that comfort factor. Perhaps more credited to Whelan, there’s an equally strong and coherent wine list. The fact that you can explore that alongside a soft bagel with kingfish rather than increasingly unsustainable salmon adds again to the low-key quality of the place, and throughout the menu it’s clear the commitment that Palinkas and Whelan show to reducing waste. To seal the deal? Good cake by the slice, to eat in or to go.
