A storied Subiaco site is reborn as a lively neighbourhood haunt for all ages.

Is it burnt orange or terracotta? Whatever the shade of the façade, there’s no mistaking Dilly Dally, which in late 2019 rose from the ashes of Subiaco landmark The Witch’s Cauldron.

This rabbit warren of a venue can seat 160 on the ground floor alone (upstairs is yet to open) but the range of spaces means that even at its busiest, it doesn’t feel crowded. Groups gravitate towards the rear dining hall, complete with polished concrete floors and kid’s corner; the front rooms suit more intimate gatherings; while the al fresco seating is geared for long afternoons and people watching.

For sweets it has to be the tiramisù, served in a neat slab and topped off  with shaved chocolate.

Much like its stablemate Lalla Rookh, Dilly Dally takes cues from Italy. The menu is divided into either pizza or “bits” of varying sizes, the largest of which include bistecca, lamb shoulder to share or chicken (crisp-skinned and seasoned generously) cacciatore served with polenta and silverbeet. Focus on snacks and it could be crisp-fried potatoes with buttermilk aïoli or meatballs in spicy sugo.

Vegetables star, too, with a plate of charred cauliflower with Jerusalem artichoke, pumpkin and grains one standout, even if it could use more cauliflower.

For sweets it has to be the tiramisù, served in a neat slab and topped off with shaved chocolate. Don’t expect to share it without a fight.

The lengthy wine list balances Old World and local with low-intervention options, and with a page of spirits, classic cocktails and a WA-led beer list, it’s well positioned for the pending tavern licence.

Be it friends, family or everyone in between, Dilly Dally is bringing the fun back to Rokeby Rd for all comers. Don’t wait.