Broody fine-diner is a fitting next chapter for one of Western Australia’s most sustainably conscious chefs.
The Margaret River region has long been the epicentre of fine-dining in Western Australia, mostly thanks to the offerings of the region’s top-flight wineries. Enter De’sendent, a stand-alone restaurant on the main drag. Chef Evan Hayter, who built his reputation in sustainability at Arimia, is serving an hours-long degustation in a sleek room where a wide kitchen counter is the focal point. From his vantage point behind that counter, Hayter meticulously plates intricate dishes, most of them showcasing just-landed seafood he’s procured from local fisherfolk. Shark Bay scallops come nestled in a parcel with black garlic and cauliflower puree, while marron salad makes its appearance as a tiny tartlet made from charcoal brioche, alongside a carrot tartare atop an airy crisp made from golden kelp. Dishes of aged hapuka and smoked trout all lead to a beautifully rosy piece of Margaret River Wagyu sirloin served with carrot bearnaise. The wine chat here is joyous and friendly, and there is none of the pomp and self-seriousness you sometimes find in these kinds of settings. It is a win for independent, chef-owned restaurants, and a win for Margaret River.
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