Cott & Co. is a bona fide hidden gem. It’s in a beach front pub which includes a rough and tough front bar and a back bar which attracts the PYTs of postcode 2011. Expectations aren’t high. But, we’ve been many times and it has never failed. The seafood is well sourced and mostly well cooked. The service staff are casual but on point.

And there’s something rather celebratory about dining with the ocean just a few metres away, especially in summer when the bi-folds are thrown back and the sea breezes waft through the dining room.

It’s all about seafood at Cott & Co. Oysters arrive at table from a range of fisheries and include Albany Rocks and Pacifics from Smoky Bar, South Australia. Kingfish crudo with fennel pollen, cuttlefish with burnt lime, and Fremantle sardines are our favourites.

Wine service is good. Wine list does the job. Remember, this is basic cookery in an accessible beachside fish joint, but the chefs have taken fish cookery to a new level.