No-nonsense cooking that gently nods to the Old World and brilliant wines to match are the mandate at this impressive new arrival in the Western Suburbs.
Every so often, a new local restaurant opens that fits so perfectly into the neighbourhood you question how it hasn’t been there all along. And so it is at Corvo, the polished eatery and bar that took over the former Billie H site early in 2022.
Naturally, you’ll find moules – with exemplary hand-cut frites – swimming in wickedly creamy marinière sauce.
The sleek, coal-black space is neatly divided, inviting drinkers to make merry at high tables in the front over G&Ts showcasing local hooch or tap brews from Gage Roads. Given Perth native Rose Bass is on the tools, however, you’ll likely want to make a beeline for a seat out back or underneath the pergola.
Her menu brings together the best of the bistro and gastropub, suffused with Australian sensibility. So, naturally, you’ll find moules – with exemplary hand-cut frites – swimming in wickedly creamy marinière sauce. And yes, there’s Parisian-style parmesan gnocchi, pan-fried till just crisp. Wood-grilled quail, meanwhile, shows up blackened in just the right places, finished with crushed almonds, blistered grapes and lots of jus.
Richness is a recurring theme, but there’s liquid relief aplenty on the bang-up wine list, which pits marquee local players against Old World superstars to winning effect. Be sure to arrive thirsty.
