A charismatic Italian local delivering Roman-style pizzas and big-hearted hospitality.

Nino La Verghetta, the gregarious former host of Pappagallo in Leederville has shifted his gaze to Cottesloe in recent years, opening a duo of Coccodrillo venues just streets apart; the cooking firmly rooted in his Italian upbringing. Start with house-made rustic style country loaf, served with remarkable estate olive oil made from Abruzzan olives. A kingfish crudo with passionfruit, lime and pickled onion lands as an unexpected delight: bright, tangy and texturally soft. Pizzas, made with Roman-style dough, are light, crunchy and expertly prepared. You might go bianche, with creamy flavour landing via fior di latte mozzarella or rosse, in which case San Marzano DOP tomatoes are the secret to the vibrant saucy base. Italian provenance is again given top billing in the Parma DOP (from the rosse cohort of the pizza menu), topped with mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, rocket and prosciutto crudo. Away from pizza, the guazzetto di pesce stands out, a generous brodetto for two with mussels, cockles, squid and goldband snapper that feels like true seaside dining. Warm service, excellent negronis and an Abruzzan-leaning wine list round out the charm.