Enduring old-world charm delivers French flair to Nedlands diners.

For almost two decades, the brief here has gone unchanged. This is classic French food in an environment that’s not bending to the casual revolution. If your idea of dining joy is white-jacketed parking attendants making you feel you’re in another time or place, a discreetly lit dining room, crisp linen tablecloths, sparkling glassware, and food that’s measured and a picture of finesse, then this is the place. Pierre Ichallalene is Le Cordon Bleu trained, from a family of restaurateurs, so you could say it’s in the blood. Crêpes aux fruits de mer sees local prawns, scallops and fish served in a zesty dill and lime mornay sauce. Chicken liver pâté, house-made with cognac and green peppercorns, is served with pork rillette, spiced French gherkins, caramelised red onion compote and toasted brioche. The kind of dish you’ll return to again and again. Carré d’Agneau à la Provençale, showcases Amelia Park Lamb rack with ratatouille. For old times’ sake (or for some, the first), there’s confit de canard, sauce à l’orange, a beautiful slow-cooked duck leg with bright Grand Marnier sauce, rested with rich pomme purée and honey-glazed carrots. Dessert has to be crème brûlée – the joy of cracking through that caramelised layer can never be underestimated. Amidst all this refinement don’t imagine that it’s a case of hushed tones; you’ll find sufficient energy to match Chez Pierre’s real drawcard, true hospitality.