It’s hard not to get all hot under the collar reading through Cantina’s menu. Spanish beans, chorizo, smoked potato, poached egg, ciabatta. This is generous food with big flavours and everything you expect from this well-regarded restaurant.

Gremolata crumbed whiting fillets with herb-infused aioli and lemon is simple, precise and pleasing. Panfried gnocchi (they have special classes on how to make its gnocchi because it’s so darn good) with butternut pumpkin, sage butter and parmesan might not be original, but they’ve made this classic their own.

Cantina takes everything seriously from its excellent coffee to its wine list. The red brick, cosy interior is inspired by the cantina’s and casual tapa joints of Spain and France.