Does Canteen Pizza in Cottesloe make the best pies in Perth? Any answer to that question  is going to be too subjective, but it is certainly one of the best in P-Town.

The pizza pies are made in the Neapolitan style – two-day mild ferment on the dough made with high-gluten Caputo flour from Italy – and then committed to the wood-fire pizza oven at a zillion degrees until it’s all puffy and bloated around the edge and a little charry and dark in patches. IT is one of the most perfect pizzas in Perth. Pizza flavours err on the side of traditional – you won’t find a tandoori chicken pizza in this place, thank God –  using top ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and wonderful fennel and pork sausages.

Pizza maybe its main game, but Canteen also specialises in porchetta – which it serves in a thick tranche on a ciabatta roll with crackling and slaw: awesome  – and a bunch of simple Italian main courses and desserts.

The wine game at Canteen is right up there, with Il Lido sommelier and legendary oenophile Dan Wegener, calling the shots on the list. There are, of course, a lot of Italians on the list but the Aussies get a good look-in too.

Canteen Pizza is a gem, a simple and straightforward pizza joint that just happens to use the best ingredients, the best pizza cooks and likeable service to produce superb, authentic Italian food at good prices for the masses.