Pizza, schmizza. Surely dough and topping can only be so good? Not on your nelly. There are some exceptional pizza joints in P-Town – pie makers renowned for their long-ferment doughs, speciality flours, San Marzano tomatoes, proper buffalo mozzarella, fresh herbs, wood-fired and coal-fired ovens and so on.

Canteen Pizza is all that and more. “More” because owner Lyndon Waples has created a stylish, wine-forward, relaxing venue which is about as far removed from a hack $5 pizza joint as you can get. Canteen’s website says, among other things “Pizza is eternal. In the crust we trust.” We agree.

Canteen’s Margherita pizza is superb and blindingly simple, and with dough this good, it adheres to every pizza tragic’s rule of thumb that “it’s always about the dough.”

Not up for pie? Canteen does a small selection of pasta, antipasti and main course Italian plates. The wine list is small and perfectly formed, one of the smarter lists we’ve seen in a pizza joint, ever. And in summer, the people-watching on Perth’s favourite beach is worthy of an Aperol spritz Canteen’s sidewalk.