Bunkers Beach House – a beautifully-positioned, sand-in-the-toes ocean side café of little distinction – has undergone a stunning transformation this year. Chef Guy Jeffreys, a former WA Good Food Guide Chef Of The Year, has taken over responsibility for its cooking (as part of his new culinary director roll with owners The Fogarty Group) and the changes have been immediate, far reaching and highly popular.

This café has an unfair advantage. We can think of no other ocean side venue in WA with views like it. Sandy beaches, a rocky headland to the right, gambolling whales to the left and families playing beach cricket and frolicking in the waves amid the happy shreaking of children.

The food is simple as in simply based on good ingredients, restrained cooking and the simple expression of great flavour. Baby carrots is a paean to the carrot in all its simple majesty, composed with whole baby purple and orange carrots, simply steamed, a lurid carrot puree the colour of monk’s robes, thinly sliced raw carrot and pickled carrot. The dish was given a nutty crunch with puffed buckwheat.

Likewise grilled broccoli, is a study in technique and the beauty of deep, deep charring. The ends and leafy bits of the various broccoli varieties on the plate, were burnt. Properly burnt. The flavour was perfect.

Fish paste, smoked in house and made with crème fraiche, is tangy and smoky. Keeping it simple is a fish carpaccio, served with house made horseradish cream. A stunner.

Bunkers Beach House is a café transformed and a reason to never again accept greasy fish and chips and dodgy chicken wings, just because you’re dining casual beside the beach.