In a region renowned for its coastline, here’s a beachfront seafood restaurant with food in line with the views.

It’s easy to be distracted by the azure ocean sparkling in front of your table at Bunkers, but once dishes start coming out, there’s only one focal point. Bunkers is no newcomer, but a switch to an all-seafood set menu brings a new standard and greater creativity in the kitchen.

Swordfish carpaccio with pickled radish is well balanced, while a swordfish steak main is seared and seasoned perfectly and served simply with coriander chimichurri. Elsewhere, grilled sardines come from Albany, octopus (served with fennel, olive and clever charred cumquat) from Esperance and a rainbow chard side comes fresh from the seaside vegetable patch. For dessert, yoghurt sorbet with strawberry and pepperberry-laced meringue is a grown-up twist on Eton mess. Clever stuff, and there’s not a foam or creamy reduction in sight.

It’s easy to be distracted by the azure ocean sparkling in front of your table at Bunkers, but once dishes start coming out, there’s only one focal point.

Wine, geared light and white, is drawn from the Fogarty portfolio (Bunkers’ owners) to suit the menu. At $70 for food and with chefs bringing out plates, this is a case of a venue responding to staff shortages in the best way – by making the most of what it has.

While it’s possible to get great seafood throughout Margaret River, there are few beachside venues laying claim to being the region’s premier coastal seafood restaurant. On this form, Bunkers might just be the one.