Bucking the burger and beer trend, this brewery-diner makes steak the draw.

Bright Tank Brewing Co, tucked away in the back streets of East Perth, is the home of Brown Street Grill. On the pass is chef Stu Laws, a veteran of the WA restaurant scene. The focus here is very much Laws’ talents for cooking with fire, aided by a custom built JAGRD charcoal grill and a Mesiano wood-fired pizza oven.

Even though the brewery crowd might expect a burger, there isn’t one. Instead, the big-ticket items, namely the steak, are the draw. There’s a considered choice between the likes of fullblood Futari wagyu reared in the Great Southern and Bluff Knoll T-bone. Dry-aged Stirling Ranges rib-eye for two weighing in at 500 grams is masterfully grilled, rested and carved.

By no means is it all about the beef though, with skillet-roasted Shark Bay tiger prawns (slipped into the wood oven) that practically roar with harissa butter, smoked tomato and lime.

 By no means is it all about the beef though, with skillet-roasted Shark Bay tiger prawns (slipped into the wood oven) that practically roar with harissa butter, smoked tomato and lime. While Laws knows how to amp things up, it’s always considered, the layers of complexity in his food coming through at every point. And while a little dolce bookend may be far from mind amid all the quality cuts and tank-fresh beer, one of the city’s best renditions of dessert-of-the-moment, Basque cheesecake, shouldn’t be missed – and yes, it’s wood baked.