If you hanker after good taramasalata – and god knows there are enough bad (fluro-pink) versions around – logic suggests a Greek restaurant might be your first port of call.
Brika’s creamy, salty, fawn-hued fish roe dip goes one step better: it’s garnished with crisped vine leaves that shatter in the mouth. The atmospheric taverna’s rustic scallop saganaki follows suit, with fetta crumbled through tomato gravy that’s pimped with good shellfish and served in an authentic saganaki pan.
Everything is for sharing, centre of the table, family style. But an exceptional orange salad, scattered with smoked pork, crushed hazelnuts and fetta, is worth keeping to yourself.
Testament to Brika’s fan base is the queues to get in on busy nights, even though its East Perth address is restaurant Siberia and far away from the resto hubs of Leederville and Highgate.
If you’re unsure of Greek wine, the floor crew at Brika can navigate you through some of its Greek titles. There are many more well-known and approachable wine brands on the list to keep the less adventurous happy too.