Japanese restraint meets the convenience of one of the western suburbs most beloved purveyors.
Above the Boatshed Market in Cottesloe, this is a restaurant shaped by what happens directly below it. Fish, produce and pantry items move upstairs as needed and that’s a pretty unique proposition for WA. Guests stop at the market below to pick up a non-alcoholic drink to bring up, or you can visit The Wine Loft sitting alongside to choose any bottle with just modest corkage charged. In the open kitchen, a team of Japanese chefs work with focus and restraint, their cooking rooted in traditional technique with an emphasis on charcoal and teppan. Ingredients are treated with care and respect, the menu moving comfortably between raw and cooked. Wagyu gyoza arrive, neatly formed parcels served with soy and black vinegar. Beef tataki follows, paired with sansho pepper, chimichurri and ponzu, lifted by puffed wild rice, burdock and chives – the balance is confident. Chicken skewers are cooked over charcoal and finished with yakitori sauce, smoked salt and lime. The cheesecake is built on a wagyu fat crust, a detail that sounds indulgent but lands with restraint, with Japanese whisky adding warmth, and an orange and herb oil keeping the finish composed. Led by sommelier and manager Jake Palmer, the room runs smoothly and without noise. Unshowy, you could say. Sitting above the market isn’t purely novelty here; the setting providing the foundation of Boto and all it has to offer.
In other news
