Praise has been lavishly heaped on Bivouac since it rode high on a revolutionary new wave of hipster eateries in Northbridge as part of the Metropolitan Redevelopment Scheme of 2010. And it’s not undeserved. Bivouac masters the fine art of appearing to be effortlessly casual while operating a military-precise kitchen turning out Mediterranean food which is bang on the mark.

Much of the farm-to-plate produce – goat, pork and beef — is sourced from the family farm of the owners, Anthony and Amanda Princi, the savvy couple who came up with the concept on a trip to Melbourne.

The food is inventive too: Chow down on Moroccan-inspired mechoui-rubbed goat chops – it has been a menu staple since day one and they are, dare we say, the softest, sweetest goat chops we’ve eaten. Something sweet? Try the fried doughnuts with jam and sugar?

A bivouac is a temporary campsite where soldiers rest and recuperate and, when applied to this busy William Street restaurant, bivouac means many things to many punters. For some it’s a pre-theatre pit stop, for others it’s a full-on “surprise me” degustation through soft-shelled crab and baked eggplant with haloumi.

It might be on trend and on song with locally-sourced produce and matching single vineyard low yield wines. But that doesn’t dampen its sense of fun. Little wonder it’s full to the brim every day of the week.