This is the neighbourhood wine bar you wish you had: charmingly curated wine list, swish fit-out, generous service and anytime share-plate dishes that spurn cheffy tricks for an unerring focus on the best seasonal produce on offer.

Much of this is down to self-taught chef Alia Glorie, who is not afraid to plate up a creamy, oniony, brandy-soused soup of perfectly pink and indulgent devilled livers. A sliver of fresh crunchy baguette allows for extra appreciation of her classic flavour combinations.

The clever seasonal focus might include (underrated) glossy deep-green Swiss chard as a side, draped simply on artisanal earthenware plates. Or sardines on “toast”: salad of ocean-fresh Fremantle sardines tossed in sherry vinegar, dill, chilli, and shallots atop a chocolatey, cakey, sprouted grain loaf made with flaxseed and honey.

Plump smoky mushrooms swim around a heavily-salted quenelle of goat’s curd; thin slices of brittle, crisp-skinned Berkshire pork shoulder sit next to a rustic stack of parsley-flecked cannellini beans; and, nicely rested Blackwood Valley flat-iron steak is cradled by a fondue-like creamy mash.

Desserts are unfussy and include a quality cheese selection and silken honeyed lavosh; the perfect foil for interesting wines that include the hard-to-find La Violetta Blood Shot Mataro Shiraz. Owner Daniel Goodsell’s love child is two years old and as comfortable in its skin as ever.