Daniel Goodsell is something of a hospitality veteran, having opened and operated a string of venues – Balthazar, Duende and Gordon Street Garage – for restaurant entrepreneur Nic Trimboli for the past couple of decades.

When it came time to step out on his own, his first venture – Billie H. was Goodsell’s idea of the perfectly well-formed community bistro, underscored by accessible but clever cooking and an epic wine program. Goodsell is a true wine wonk and sitting at the bar at his Claremont restaurant allows him to take you down some roads and back alleys you might not have previously travelled in your search for new and interesting wines. There is always a small producer or two, or some new locally made wines from young, fringe winemakers, to try. Rarely have we been disappointed with his suggestions.

The food at Billie H. might best be described as modern bistro. Chef Alia Glorie is a master with flavor and creative when it comes to pairing proteins with unconventional garnishes. Most plates are meant to be shared, as is the fashion these days. All her plates look the bomb. Carefully sliced pork belly on a vegetable puree with charred onion cheeks is a work of art.

Billie H. is also an all-day affair. The kitchen never closes, so you can eat a late lunch at 4pm or just sidle up to the bar for some snacks and great drinks.

Billie H. has a casual, easy vibe. It is much loved by locals and it’s easy to see why. Go on, spoil yourself.