Call it reinvention or evolution, but Besk could just be the blueprint for the modern Australian pub.

Besk takes drinking seriously. Notable craft beer names from our own shores and beyond form a regularly rotating roster. Natural wine producers aren’t just stocked, they’re collaborators (they work with Margaret River’s Dormilona, for instance). And the bottle-shop adds to the already brimming selection, with more of the good stuff complementing one of WA’s best zero-alcohol line-ups.

The fun at this roving bar-bottle-shop-restaurant doesn’t stop at drinks, with food from the open kitchen skirting between modern counter meals and plates that wouldn’t be out of place in the city’s best wine bars.

But the fun at this roving bar-bottle-shop-restaurant doesn’t stop at drinks, with food from the open kitchen skirting between modern counter meals and plates that wouldn’t be out of place in the city’s best wine bars. Take the North Street Store sourdough spread with tomato, onion, dill and capers and topped with grilled Albany sardines. A squeeze of lemon and you’re bordering on a simple yet quintessential WA dish.

Or you might leave the fish out and keep it simple with a bright heirloom tomato salad, add a thick slice of bread served with Pepe Saya butter, then follow up with a wood-grilled sirloin, served medium-rare with a pat of anchovy butter and perfectly crisp and salty kipfler potatoes.

Heady stuff, all realised in a smart, airy space defined by raw brick and sharp lines. The new Aussie pub? This might be it.