Besk took nearly two years to design and build. But the delays were worth it. It opened in August this year and lived up to its simple manifesto of local pub, community hub, liquor store, bar and casual restaurant.

Besk joins Perth’s rapidly expanding modern neighbourhood pub sector along with recent arrivals Quarter Acre in Applecross and Henry Summer in Northbridge. Beers are the thing, with 20-plus taps showcasing a roster of craft specialities and more conventional tap beers, along with scores of bottle beers. Besk has a bottle shop to the side which champions new, low intervention and small producer wines without ignoring the big name top sellers.

Chef Gerrad Mitchell is pumping out pub classics with his own twist. His hand-chopped tartare is recommended along with his clever take on a yiros. The kitchen has a fire pit rotisserie. Any meats off this beast are superb. Vegetable dishes are a highlight: cauliflower with roasted hazelnuts and apple; carrots with chopped dates; roasted almond and mushroom tamale with cashew cheese.

A bright atmosphere, aided by good design and a seven day operation will ensure this new local becomes a neighbourhood fave.