This dimly lit Beaufort Street haunt skirts the question of, do we go there for drinks or is it about the food?

It’s a trick question if ever there was one. If you’re doing it right, the answer is both. As one of Perth’s canniest sommeliers, Sarah Atkinson takes care of the drinks, ably backed by a team that’s just as switched on. You’ll find a list exploring wine on its merits, not its manifesto, as well as boutique spirits and classy cocktails. For liquid chats, pull up in the front bar – or there’s no better place than a seat streetside on a balmy night. A table upstairs is ideal if you’re after more than a smattering of snacks. And you will want to order big. Pigs’ head croquettes are cut with the gripping intensity of confit garlic mustard, while chicken liver parfait is elegant and delicately presented. Bar Rogue’s kitchen has landed several cult classics over the years (cold fried chicken with caviar springs to mind), and their prawn roll is now vying for greatest-hits status, too. Don’t miss it.