New York meets Perth in the historic heart of the city.

Order a New Orleans Old Fashioned. A mix of Cognac and two kinds of whiskey, made bittersweet with cola-reduction syrup and amaro, it gives you a huge heads up as to what Bar Lafayette is all about. Which is to say, as much as whiskey takes top billing, it’s by no means the be all and end all.

Some may push the boat out with a $200 nip of 25-year-old Macallan Fine Oak from Craigellachie, but others are just here for a good time fuelled by an extensive backbar and sharply executed classic cocktails.

Some may push the boat out with a $200 nip of 25-year-old Macallan Fine Oak from Craigellachie, but others are just here for a good time fuelled by an extensive backbar and sharply executed classic cocktails.

White rum, apricot brandy and sloe gin come together in Watermelon Millionaire, a drink that graces tables throughout the venue, be it outside under a string of fairy lights, or in a dark corner among Chesterfields and framed paintings of horses or sailboats.

Charred eggplant dip with house-made harissa or Shark Bay crab on crisp brioche with crème fraîche, dill and salmon roe stand up to whatever drink you throw at them (and you can throw a few). The wine and beer lists stay compact but keep the scope wide, pitting Great Southern pinot noir against big Barolo and Beerfarm lager against Blasta Brewing’s grapefruit IPA. It’s clear though that everyone’s a winner here.