A bush retreat in wine country, close to the sea, with an off-grid philosophy and homegrown advantage on the plate.

Down a country lane, in an idyllic semi-bush setting not far from the ocean and with its own vineyards to boot, Arimia has all the hallmarks of a wonderful tale. The belief here is to be as off-grid, and as self-sustaining as possible.

The belief here is to be as off-grid, and as self-sustaining as possible. Most of the produce is grown on site, including superb pork and even its own rainbow trout.

Most of the produce is grown on site, including superb pork and even its own rainbow trout. The kitchen garden is an actual source of produce that extends to a most serene locale for a dining room and verandah. Chef and co-owner Evan Hayter offers a fixed, multi-course menu made up of an extensive parade of small dishes ($95 all told) that mostly will leave you feeling very happy. A wagyu tartare snack, perhaps, or a piece of gently hot-smoked trout in a tangy tomato water with avocado purée and fried onion.

A plate of barbecued pork collar in an onion consommé, too, is outstanding. Not all dishes are consistently brilliant, and there are missed opportunities to really sell the story, but Hayter’s pan-fried potato gnocchi with shimeji, broccoli and an anchovy sauce is worth a detour alone. Tell the tale better, and the detour will become the destination.