Apple Daily styled itself at launch, five years ago, as the WA version of Mod-Aus-Asian heavy hitters Longrain and Chin Chin, the two greatest exponents of this style of cuisine in Australia.

It was never quite that good, but it gave the Longrain style a damn good nudge. It’s had stiff competition recently, but Apple Daily is holding its own and plating up flavourful dishes.

A classic betel-leaf snack, miang of silken tofu with grapefruit, tamarind and peanuts, is a wrap of soft, crunchy and fruity ingredients, bound with a tangy, mouth-puckering tamarind dressing and the fleshy, chewy betel leaf. Nice. Green papaya salad lacks the punch and perkiness of the Thai original but it is fresh and cleanly flavoured.

Sticky twice-cooked pork belly with young coconut and banana blossom salad is as good as it reads. A fine dish.

Distressed Asian shop-house décor, neon lights, loose vibes and dark corners – no, it’s not the set of Blade Runner, it’s the very beguiling dining room of the Print Hall Complex’s little corner of pan-Asian street food.