A provincial Chinese fine diner loaded with personality.
As much as Andly Private Kitchen leans into their luxe reinterpretation of Chinese cooking and culture, there’s something purely Perth about this dining experience. Maybe it’s in the way that this city consistently backs operators with their own unique vision. Once you’ve picked your degustation menu and any additions in advance, then wired the money, what awaits is an experience like no other. Co-owner Olivia De Almeida sets the tone with assured, gracious service, while Li ‘Andly’ Yuekua delivers precise hit after hit from the open kitchen. Juicy pork-filled bao capped with silver leaf and served with pickles, say, or shingled slices of avocado forming a shell for diced raw salmon lent crunch with pine nuts. Water chestnuts and goji berries pop like jewels in a soup of depth and richness, while stir-fried long prawn flavoured with black bean is artfully arranged and elegantly plated. A glance at the kitchen might offer a glimpse of Yuekua preparing a flash-fried lobster supplement for tables taking full advantage of the modest BYO corkage fee. Earl Grey and rose parfait with mango sorbet for dessert is a refreshing finish, but what’s more refreshing is the sense of experiencing something entirely new, even as Andly approaches a decade in service.
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