Few restaurants take flight in the way that Amelia Park Restaurant has. The concrete, black cladding and obtuse angles of the modernist building are a refreshing architectural change from the more traditional Margaret River wine sales and restaurant complexes

Operators Blair and Renee Allen have transplanted the local vibe of their previous digs, restaurant Piari & Co in Dunsborough, to Amelia Park. Their trademark informality has brought a legion of fans with them to the new venture.

The food too is informal but well executed. Who doesn’t like a sausage roll, and Allen’s lamb-neck version with soft flaky pastry is next level; a hint of rosemary and thyme, a good whack of black garlic ketchup and a taste that’s all about the lamb and not the fat. Similarly generous, scallops are generous, plump and sweet, playing well with corn served three ways.

Yabbies, piled high and dripping in miso butter are the very definition of umami. Laid on fresh, seasonal asparagus and ribbons of pickled turnip, it’s an earthy, tart counterpoint.

Pork belly from local supplier Big Red has just the right amount of fat to meat, a layer of crackling; moist and packed with flavour, it’s a lesson in perfect pork.

There’s more to Amelia Park than the restaurant. The visitor centre and wine tasting facility is arguably the best in Margaret River – a significant architectural statement and notable for its spare design.