In the heart of Wilyabrup, Amelia Park Restaurant offers refined yet rustic fare.

At first glance, Amelia Park Restaurant is on the showier end of Margaret River’s dining scene, a custom build of sharp lines, charcoal walls and its fair quota of chandeliers.

But while Blair Allen’s food is refined, it is also rustic, a hearty playbook of contemporary dishes that hero local ingredients and a smattering of pickling and fermenting coming out of the kitchen.

While Blair Allen’s food is refined, it is also rustic, a hearty playbook of contemporary dishes that hero local ingredients and a smattering of pickling and fermenting coming out of the kitchen.

A generous wood-grilled tentacle of Fremantle octopus stands out, as does the lasting piquant harissa oil it’s served with, while Manjimup rainbow trout pairs well with sweet cornbread and salty pops of roe. Wine is, on the whole, care of the estate, but the list does take in notable neighbours like Vasse Felix’s Idée Fixe label, Fraser Gallop and Gralyn Estate.

Lamb is undoubtedly the star here, though, aligned with the Amelia Park brand, whether you choose a collapsing slow-cooked shoulder to share, or a blushing-pink lamb rack with Jerusalem artichoke cream and miso-roasted cabbage adding interest. This more-accessible nod to fine dining lean has drawn locals and visitors alike.

What to expect? A finely put-together seasonal menu that easily avoids the oft-heard criticism that winery dining is too small or too fancy to be enjoyable.