Another smart addition to the Blumann and Fleming stable, this Wembley newcomer sets a high standard for the neighbourhood bar of the here and now.

In acquiring The Stanley and reinventing it as Albert’s Respite & Refreshments, Siobhan Blumann and Hamish Fleming (Mechanics’ Institute, Mrs Brown, St Brigid Bar) did what so few operators do when they collect the keys to a cherished local haunt: they pretty much left it alone.

Yes, they’ve expanded the deck, and there’s now a coat of teal paint along the walls and doors. But you can still order Flipside Burgers from next door, the elegant Art Deco pendant lights live on above the bar, and the come-one-come-all spirit remains writ large.

It’s a place to bring the pooch for a post-walk pour of Nowhereman Leederville Lager in the courtyard, or to spend long afternoons by the fire with mates over board games and barrel-aged Negronis.

It’s a place to bring the pooch for a post-walk pour of Nowhereman Leederville Lager in the courtyard, or to spend long afternoons by the fire with mates over board games and barrel-aged Negronis.

Though the aim here is to please rather than provoke, that’s not to say the offering lacks interest. Take the one-page wine list that treads a mostly local and low-intervention path with ease, or the ‘pantry’ selection of canned fish, charcuterie, cheese and preserves, overseen by Propeller head chef Kurt Sampson. Even a house Spritz swaps old standbys for the Republic of Fremantle gin, Select Aperitivo and blood-orange soda, proving that, sometimes, sincerity and simplicity win the day.