Perth’s pop-up scene is thriving—with its low-barrier entry and high-creative energy, it’s become a breeding ground for emerging culinary talent.
From Richard Overbye’s former pop-up kitchen Superglou at Modus Coffee to Drew Dawson’s Off License kitchen takeovers and Jacob D’Vauz’s cult-followed Special Deliveries at Doubleview Bowls Club, the movement is rethinking what dining in Perth can look like.
Bac Pham is part of that same new wave. His Vietnamese pop-up, North 54, ran Sunday services out of Doubleview Bowls Club. There, he playfully riffed on his heritage with a menu of rotating dishes such as birria tacos with lemongrass, banh mi reworked with focaccia, and always, his pork and prawn spring rolls with signature green sauce.
Now, he’s making it permanent. North 54 has found a home of its own, opening on Leederville’s Oxford Street. The offering? A daytime spot for now, centred around not-so traditional banh mis, rice and noodle bowls, and flavour-packed snacks that blend tradition and fun.
We caught up with Bac to talk about the leap from pop-up to permanent, why heritage sits at the heart of his menu—and the dishes he reckons are absolute must-orders.
What’s the story you’re hoping to tell with North 54?
North 54 feels like a little slice of Vietnam—but through my eyes. It’s all the flavours I grew up with brought to life with a fresh, fun energy that fits here in Perth. It’s street food reimagined for now.
You’ve cooked across a pretty diverse range of kitchens and cuisines—what’s brought you back to channeling your own heritage now?
After many years working in all kinds of kitchens, I realised that through cooking Vietnamese food was where I could express myself and tell my own story. Through cooking, I’m able to honour my heritage and have a bit of fun with it.
With heritage playing a big part in what you’re offering, can you tell us about growing up around food and the role cooking played in your family?
I grew up in a family that didn’t really express love verbally, instead food was how we showed it. We always had family dinners every Sunday at Mum and Dad’s place, and that tradition still continues. So opening North 54 is a bit of a love letter to them.
How would you describe your approach to Vietnamese food at North 54? Is it rooted in tradition, nostalgia, reinterpretation or something else entirely?
It’s definitely rooted in nostalgia, but with reimagination. I’m not serving things exactly how they were done in the ’90s—I’m putting those memories through my own lens. It’s about giving it fun, personality, and depth, while always staying true to my roots.
Vietnamese cuisine, especially banh mis, seem to be having a moment in Perth. How has the Vietnamese scene evolved in your eyes, and where do you think it’s heading?
It’s exciting to see, there is definitely a new wave of Vietnamese people putting their own spin on banh mis. It may not always be traditional but it’s still deeply connected to our roots. I think balance of fun, quality and authenticity is where it’s all going.
Is North 54 more of a grab-and-go lunch spot, a casual dinner hangout—or a bit of both? Can you walk us through the menu and what’s on offer?
We’re a day time spot for now, mostly takeaway since we’ve got limited seating, But we are looking to get a BYO license so we can have some fun in the evening too.
The menu is built around banh mis, rice and rice noodle bowls and snacks that nod to my childhood memories and my time spent living in Thailand. Think lamb “Xiu Mai” meatballs, son in law eggs, gai yang chicken—it’s all simple but packed with flavour.
What’s a dish people might not expect but you think they’ll come back for?
I think the lamb meatballs might surprise people, traditionally done with pork mince, I’ve swapped it for lamb instead which is kinda bizarre but I made it tasty and I reckon people will like it as much as I do.
You’ve been running North 54 as a pop-up for a while now, what made you want to open a bricks-and-mortar venue and how did you decide on Leederville?
Pop-ups are super fun, but I got over lugging my whole kitchen in and out of the car every week!
For me, a pop-up was always going to be temporary. I’ve known for a while that I wanted a place to really call my own. Leederville just felt right. It’s creative, vibrant, full of energy, and the kind of place where I knew North 54 would fit in.
Speaking of your time as a pop up—is that something you want to bring into this space too? Any surprises we should keep an eye out for?
We definitely want to keep that pop-up spirit alive in this space. I’d love to host chefs and cooks who are just getting started—if they ever need a space to test something or kick off a new idea, they can hit me up.
And yep — there’ll definitely be some fun collabs happening. Stay tuned!
Craving a steaming bowl of phở or the perfect bánh mì? Discover our guide to Perth’s best Vietnamese restaurants.