Ten years ago, Jason and Kellie Stanford-Stone left Perth for sixty acres in Margaret River with a young family, an open mind, and a hunch that the region had room for something unexpected. What they planted was yuzu, a citrus fruit so deeply woven into Japanese culinary tradition that it borders on the sacred, and so rarely grown in Australia that most of their neighbours had never heard of it. A decade on, their orchard is supplying some of the state’s finest kitchens, and the fruit is quietly finding its place in the West Australian food story.
How did yuzu come onto your radar?
It happened organically. We always knew we wanted to grow something a little different, something with a genuine culinary story. Through friends in the wine industry, over a few relaxed afternoon drinks, someone suggested we look into yuzu. At the time it was still largely unfamiliar in Australia, but that was part of the appeal. The more we researched it, the more it made sense. Margaret River’s temperate Mediterranean climate, with its mild winters and coastal influence, is actually very well suited to citrus. Once we realised the conditions aligned, it felt like a natural fit.
What was the reaction from the local farming community?
Most people genuinely didn’t know what it was. Margaret River is so strongly shaped by wine and beef that anything outside those lanes tends to draw puzzled looks. But the unfamiliarity wasn’t negative. It was more of a curious “tell me more” reaction. What surprised me was how quickly high-end chefs understood the potential. They saw the flavour, the story, the uniqueness, and immediately started imagining how they could use it. Their enthusiasm gave us early validation and helped show the region that there’s room here for new ideas alongside the traditional ones.
Were there moments of doubt in those early years?
Definitely. Especially with my love of round numbers, which is how we somehow ended up planting a thousand trees. I honestly thought yuzu would be harder to grow than it has turned out to be, but those early years were still a huge leap of faith. You’re putting in all this work, staring at tiny trees, wondering if you’ve completely overcommitted. Most days it’s the whole family out in the orchard. Jason, Ethan and Lola do the picking. The boys take care of fertilising. Lola and I handle sorting and packing. I also completed a Certificate IV in horticulture along the way, which helped us understand the trees properly rather than just hoping for the best. Seeing the kids involved, watching the orchard take shape, and getting those first signs of real progress made every moment of doubt feel worth it.
How would you describe the flavour of yuzu to someone who has never tried it?
It sits somewhere between a mandarin, a lemon and a grapefruit, but with an extraordinary perfume that hits you before you even taste it. Floral, tart and wonderfully complex. At home we love using the juice in simple, everyday ways. After a day in the orchard we’ll often add a splash to an afternoon drink. In the kitchen, one of my favourites is whisking it with miso as a dressing for oysters or to brush over grilled salmon. It brings out the savoury notes and adds a clean citrusy depth that’s hard to beat.
Who were your early champions in the food community?
Some of the very first were chefs and producers. Voyager Estate, Vasse Felix and Wills Domain Restaurant were incredibly supportive early on. They understood yuzu straight away. While a lot of locals were still working out what it even was, these chefs were already imagining it on their menus. Pezzano Enterprises were also among the first to really champion what we were doing. Their interest gave us a huge boost because they know quality produce and don’t get excited about something unless it genuinely has potential. That early enthusiasm told me yuzu had a real place in the West Australian food scene.
Your family loves Japanese cuisine. How does that cultural connection inform what you do?
In Japan, yuzu isn’t just an ingredient. It’s tied to seasons, rituals and a very deep food tradition. That’s something we think about a lot, and it influences the respect and care we bring to the orchard. We’re planning a family trip to Japan later this year to experience yuzu in its home country. I’m excited to see how it’s grown, how it’s used, how it fits into everyday life. I think understanding that context firsthand will only deepen how we approach growing it here.
How does the year unfold in the orchard?
Seasonality is everything. In spring I’m watching for new growth and blossom, which is beautiful but also when I’m watching for wind and pests. Summer is about nurturing and protecting the fruit as it slowly develops. Yuzu takes its time, so you’re constantly checking the trees. Autumn is when the fruit starts to colour up and the excitement really builds. Harvest is my favourite time. It’s busy and a little chaotic, but in the best way. After months of watching and waiting, seeing those bright yellow fruit come off the trees is incredibly rewarding. A mix of relief, pride and gratitude. Every season teaches you something new.
Where does locally grown yuzu sit in the broader WA food conversation?
Western Australia has an incredible food community and a real push toward local and hyper-regional produce. Yuzu is starting to find its place in that conversation, particularly with the chefs and producers who supported us early. But there’s still work to do. A lot of WA kitchens are still using imported yuzu and haven’t fully made the connection that it’s now being grown locally. Part of that is simply awareness. The more we can share the story, the flavour and the quality of what’s grown here, the more it will become part of the West Australian food identity. We’re building that connection one season at a time.
Are there parts of the yuzu plant that you feel are still underused?
Absolutely. The peel is incredibly aromatic and we’ve been experimenting with it, from heat-drying and freeze-drying to working with whole fruit. We also produce cold-pressed juice, which captures the flavour beautifully. The leaves are a particular favourite of mine. Very aromatic, and I’m still exploring different ways they could be used. Even the seeds have remarkable health benefits that most people don’t realise. There’s a lot more to yuzu than the fruit alone, and I’d love to see more chefs exploring the whole plant.
What does the future look like for Margaret River Yuzu?
We’re still figuring that out, honestly. Right now it’s a small, hands-on operation and we really value that connection to the product and the region. In the near term our focus is on making yuzu more accessible, especially for home cooks. We’d love to develop a range of products that make it easy to incorporate yuzu into everyday cooking without needing to be a chef. Beyond that, we’re keeping things open. We’re more interested in growing thoughtfully, staying true to what makes this fruit special, and seeing where the opportunities take us.