This September, the WAGFG team House Favourites takes us from a Hunter Valley olive oil with film star packaging to a stovetop tool that’s changed how Sophie cooks fish. Jono brings us back down to earth in Perth’s north with a simple, brilliant burger and a Dunsborough loaf worth a drive, while Max heads south for a big new WA hospitality opening and back in Perth, introduces us to a fried bread that’s stayed with him since. Georgia rounds things out with a poster with purpose that she can’t wait to arrive, a serious mayonnaise conversion, a love for female founders doing cool things, a Sydney pizza slice worth a flight, and a look at Subiaco’s very real hospitality comeback.
WAGFG Contributor, Sophie Gargett
Pangallo Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oils
I fall hard when I find something new that I absolutely love. But even when the product itself is pinnacle quality, the extra that’s sure to make me weak at the knees is good branding. For me, olive oil is as essential to life as water, so my heart skipped a beat when I discovered Pangallo Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oils on a recent Sydney sojourn. Being locally grown in the Hunter Valley, its provenance is assured, though it has a flavour profile more akin to heritage Italian EVOOs than Australian. But it’s the bold red and white packaging, reminiscent of a Fellini film title, that had me at hello. It’s only available online to Sandgropers at the moment, so WA stockists take note.
Brendan Pang’s Chilli Oil
In these fraught days of skyrocketing cossie-livs, the first things to fall off the shopping list are the small luxuries. But if I have to live without chilli oil, I’m not sure I want to make it to the other side of inflation. At $20 for a 200ml jar, something has to give, and Brendan Pang is giving it. His chilli oil recipe is made using easily sourced ingredients and can be whipped together faster than you can say interest rate hike.
Mr Niland’s Fish Weight
Mr Niland’s Fish Weight has changed my cooking game. More than a fish cooking tool, it’s a stovetop essential. Made from sleek polished stainless steel, while its forebears are grippy cast iron, and engineered to have just the right weight to foil the curling pull of fish skin, it presses the skin flat against the hot pan while the heat from the metal gently cooks the flesh above. The result is a flat fillet with a crackling, caramelised crust. It works similar miracles on a scotch fillet and crunchy smashed potatoes, and unexpectedly, it’s an insider tip for a muy bueno quesadilla.
Desa Potato Head, Bali
To be cool and refined while maintaining integrity is a tall order for any of us, one generally must give way to the other. In hospitality, where there’s a bottom line to meet, it’s almost impossible to achieve. But I think I may have discovered this rare beast. A four day stay in the newer Rem Koolhaas designed studios at Bali’s Desa Potato Head was an immersion in these ideals. In the food and design, the Desa is an homage to both the heritage and modern creativity of Indonesia, and the commitment to being zero waste drives that innovation further. There aren’t enough superlatives to give the Desa justice, but it gives me hope for better tourism.
WAGFG Contributor, Jono Outred
Hoodburger’s Tender Deluxe
In a world of over the top, over filled and over sauced burgers that yearn for social media clout and come with a hefty price, it’s refreshing to find a burger shop that understands and champions a simpler approach to the humble burger. In my view, the cheeseburger stands as one of the greatest accomplishments in burger history, and it brags just five or so ingredients depending on who’s putting it together. Hoodburger has been doing its thing for over a decade now, originally a pop up before opening multiple outlets across the city. Their Northbridge store within Old Shanghai on James Street is my favourite, as there are other nearby eateries within Old Shanghai for a sneaky side, perhaps some fried chicken feet, beef satay skewers or a curry puff, with your burger. The Tender Deluxe is but one simple and substantial offering from the Hoodburger menu, featuring chicken tenders, lettuce, pickles, tomato, cheese and sauce. All for a paltry $16.50, served on a plastic lunch tray but more than enough burger despite its affordability and lack of excess.
Local Cookbooks
Looking through the cookbook section of an op shop can be treacherous business, but among the plethora of microwave cookbooks, dieting books and Australian themed cookery books from decades past with awe inspiring recipes like jellied prawns, Ambrosia salad or fondue, gems can be found with some patience. Among my personal collection of cookbooks there are several from local chefs in WA, a lot of them no longer in print and therefore sniffed out among the shelves of op shops from across the state. Russell Blaikie’s Must Eat came from Albany’s Community Paws op shop, A Year in the Kitchen with Kate Lamont from the Nannup tip shop, and Sophie Zalokar’s Food of the Southern Forests from the Dunsborough Lions Shed, to name a few. Of course, some were gifted or bought new, a firm favourite being Fervor, gifted and signed by the man himself, Paul Yoda Iskov.
Long Point Brewing Co Side Pour Red
Sometimes, the way a beer is poured can define it. Slow pouring, cask conditioning and Bierstacheln are all techniques that impact the beers using them, and many styles, like Pilsner and Japanese lagers, are defined by their pours. At Long Point Brewing Co, head brewer Jackson Purser taps into the aesthetics of beer, creating a red lager that in house pours from specialised side pour taps for a particularly creamy, pillowy carbonation over a malt driven, ruby red beer boosted with bright, fruity hops. The brewing team have also put it in tins, carbonating just so to yield the same experience if taking away.
Wild Bakery Dunsborough Alpine Rye
Wild Bakery opened their fifth store last week, in the heart of Dunsborough. And while the coastal dwelling town already has two bakeries, Wild brings its unique approach to sourdough bread, among a few other goodies. Loaves like the rich and nutty rye heavy Alpine loaf, a tin loaf that is the perfect vehicle for simply adding a good whack of butter and a sprinkle of sea salt, or for more substantial sandwich making, a tuna melt or even a thick smear of ricotta and a drizzle of honey. A versatile, full flavoured loaf now freshly baked in Dunsborough.
Taste of Asia Beef Curry Puff
Busselton has its fair share of quality eateries, but one of its most understated lies at the far end of Queen Street, well away from the hustle and bustle. Taste of Asia is a small family run Asian grocery and café with a well stocked bain marie of homemade goodies. There are substantial curries and noodle dishes on offer, but the highlight is the homemade pastries and dumplings that are ideal for taking away when on the go. The Malaysian style beef curry puff is a regular go to at just $5.50, where a golden and flaky outer bread encases a rich beef mince curry bursting with spices and sweetness. It’s big enough to be a solid snack, or alongside some fried pork dumplings, an exceptional lunch for less than a tenner.
WAGFG Guide Editor, Max Brearley
Wayfinder Winery and Farm, Cowaramup
Officially opening its doors yesterday, on Wednesday 16 September, this is the new home of executive chef Brendan Pratt, who is overseeing the estate restaurant as well as the Dunsborough based wine bar. I was lucky enough to attend the recent opening, as well as spend the next morning chatting to Brendan and the estate’s market gardener Amy Dyson, previously of Glenarty Road. To say that this is special would be something of an understatement. The estate’s sustainable ethos flows through the vineyard, winery, the garden, and into the kitchen. Some aspects of this are in plain sight, others you would never know of, but talk to the team as a whole and that commitment is front and centre. Crucially, the food won’t disappoint those who still have Brendan’s innovative Vasse Felix tenure in mind, but it’s a humble gentleman’s relish that stuck with me, a neat way to use up volume from the garden. Book ahead to avoid disappointment.
Fried Bread at Cantina di Lulu La Delizia
About thirty years ago a uni friend said that, as a northerner, I was predisposed to fried bread. It wasn’t a compliment, even though fried bread is a wondrous thing that lives far beyond a full English breakfast. And it seems the northern Italians know this too, if this $8 opener is anything to go by. No ordinary fried bread, this is blessed with wild oregano, garlic, lemon and, oh lord, anchovy butter. You could add the salumi selection and concoct your own toasted sandwich tableside, but personally, I’d go as is.
Banh Mi Burger, Servo Taphouse, Cowaramup
I’m not usually a fan of one thing masquerading as another, as it brings thoughts of too many bad fusion concepts. But there’s always an exception, and the banh mi burger that chalked up on the board on a recent visit to Servo Taphouse is it. A hefty slice of roast pork with crackling, the required heat and carrot crunch, and a smear of pate between a burger bun. Paired with something light and crisp from the taps, here’s hoping it sticks around.
The CWA Cookery Book and Household Hints
I do love a new cookbook, but you’ve got to give it up for the classics. I recently bought the 60th edition of The CWA Cookery Book and Household Hints, which is celebrating 90 years in print, a book that has had a life in the kitchens, and classrooms, of WA far beyond what original editor Agnes Barnes could have imagined back in 1936. While many of the cakes and biscuits are fan favourites, I’m looking at pressed tongue.
Editor in Chief, Georgia Moore
A Poster I’ll Be Been Waiting For
I discovered Food For Everyone years ago, a Melbourne studio pairing chefs and artists to turn recipes into collectible artworks. I now have about six of their posters, and I love them for more than how they look. Every piece is printed locally on sustainable materials, hand packed with care, and for each one sold, they donate the equivalent of four meals to food charities across Australia. Meeting the incredible Rodney Dunn from The Agrarian Kitchen recently was a big deal for me; I have admired him for a long time, and just a few days later this dropped: Asparagus With Ricotta and Shaved Lemon, a collaboration between The Agrarian Kitchen and artist Gemma Leslie. It captures a long lunch in the gardens of the Tasmanian restaurant, painted in rich greens that pull you straight into that one acre garden. On the table sits a dish that only appears with spring, asparagus, fresh ricotta and shaved lemon, a seasonal marker for Rodney. Get yours here.
Good Fat Mayo
I am becoming very particular as I get on in this life, and I have made peace with it – somewhat. Is Greek Style Yoghurt really real Greek Yoghurt? Does commercially made sourdough have the same ferments as a local artisan loaf? And why am I thinking about these things at 4am? Well I found some answers to one such issue. Somewhere in the last few years I stopped ignoring how certain oils make me feel. I am a mayonnaise person, especially with eggs, curry powder, and a good pickle finely chopped throughout. I really love Good Fat Mayo by Undivided Food Co. It is Australia’s first commercial mayonnaise made exclusively with olive oil instead of industrial seed oils, using Australian olive oil, free range whole eggs, apple cider vinegar, lemon juice, mustard powder, sea salt and rosemary extract.
My Morning Soundtrack
My mornings have a soundtrack, and right now it is Alice Costelloe’s debut album, Move on With the Year, playing while I work through emails with a strong coffee. What I love most about this album is how she takes a genuinely hard childhood, growing up with a parent who struggled with addiction coupled with abandonment, and turns it into something soft and sweet rather than bitter. Part of what draws me in is that it could not be further from my own experience. My childhood was very stable and nothing like the world she is describing, and that is often exactly what pulls me toward a piece of music or a story, finding something completely unrelatable to my own life and discovering it is beautiful anyway. Perfect for a morning that needs both softness and focus.
APPIZZA, Taylor Square, Darlinghurst
If you find yourself in Sydney, put Appizza Taylor Square on the list. They are behind what locals are calling the Sydney Slice, giant 22 inch New Haven style pies served by the slice, with a crust that is thin, crispy and properly charred. The slices run from a classic tomato and a simple cheese through to pepperoni, and a salad slice topped with greens and a lemon wedge. You can dress things up further with extra stracciatella, hot honey, chunky anchovies (yes please!!) or cured meats. To drink there are frozen spicy margaritas on tap and lemon myrtle negronis, plus soft serve for after. This is considered casual, red crates included, at its best.
The Subiaco (Real) Comeback
Interviewing Daniel Goodsell from Lady of Ro for Paper Scissors Stock recently confirmed something I have been sensing for a while, that Subiaco has returned to form as one of Perth’s great hospitality pockets. A few weeks back (and I do love a pleasant surprise) I had a brilliant meal with the always wonderful Erin Larkin at The Embassy by Devlin’s for my column in Business News. Erin is super well travelled and echo’d my thoughts on the experience. The hospitality was proper and old school – sharply dressed waiters that were personality plus and a service delivery that has become rare.
Subiaco is having a moment. We are all excited about Leigh Power’s Larry’s Charcoal Chicken arriving – we’re told it’s anchored in whole birds marinated for a full day over charcoal and sides of toum, pickles and warm bread. Add Lulu La Delizia, Lulu Cantina, FOUND. Subiaco, Intuition Wine & Kitchen, Juanita’s, ‘The Subi’, Delisio, Piccolo Deli and Trattoria, Shui, Yiamas, Nippon Fare, Jean Claude and Bar Amelie to the mix, and you have your next solid Perth hospitality high street firmly back in play.
The Rise of Female Founded Businesses
It is becoming wonderfully common to see businesses run by female co-founders, and a handful in Perth continue to inspire me. Vitality House, and now Works in the building behind it, was founded by friends Amy Coleman and Remmy Roberts, who met as coworkers at a creative agency and turned a shared obsession with wellness into one of the city’s most considered co-working spaces in West Leederville. Then there is LA Fit, the Perth home of Lagree Fitness, founded by Claire Chidgzey and Jaye Cuypers, who have grown the studio into two thriving locations across Subiaco and Highgate and kept it open for ten years in what has become a saturated market. More recently, I sat down with Column, a brand strategy and marketing communications studio directed by Sarah Langley and Deborah Thomas. As if being sharp, switched on and entirely unpretentious wasn’t enough to make them a-must-work-with duo, they take a purist approach to strategy first, working through to implementation to help clients reveal the essence of their brand. Look out for an upcoming piece on the great female minds shaping hospitality across WA, and beyond, coming soon.