Oil runs deep in the veins of Gwelup Fish and Chips co-owner Anisha Halik.
A self-described “fry baby”, she has worked in the industry since taking an after-school job at Landsdale Fish and Chips at just 14.
There, Anisha absorbed everything she could from late owner Pierre Ulgen, including the closely guarded batter that still makes her fish stand out.
Honouring a promise never to reveal the recipe, Anisha has kept the ingredients under wraps for years. Even her husband, chef and co-owner Jacob D’Vauz, remains in the dark.
“It has a special place in my heart and that’s why even Jacob doesn’t know it,” she says.
Helping establish the fish and chip shop at Sealanes in Fremantle deepened her understanding of seafood and the behind-the-scenes work, from scaling and gutting to filleting.
Fish and chips also became a staple during Anisha and Jacob’s Special Delivery kitchen residency at Doubleview Bowling Club. While opening her own shop had long been the goal, it arrived sooner than expected, cutting short their most recent pop-up, Magnolia BBQ.
“In some ways, I like to think the shop found us,” she says of the Gwelup site, flagged by longtime chip supplier and mentor Michael Xydas of Choice Chips.
The excitement of securing her own venue was tempered by the timing. It coincided with the announcement of WA’s demersal fishing ban, forcing a rethink of her plan to focus on local catch.
“We’ll get there eventually, and probably using other things than fish,” she says.
“For some families, the only time they eat fish is when they have fish and chips, so it would have been perfect to offer local.
“Now I’m playing it safe, seeing what customers are enjoying and keeping an eye on what’s available and affordable each day.”
Anisha sources imported fish alongside a smaller selection of local species such as shark, whiting and Spanish mackerel through Choice Chips. Australian prawns, scallops, market fish and specials come via Fins Seafood.
“The market fish can change daily,” she says. “For what it’s worth, our imported fish are packed for Australian companies and clearly marked sustainable. They come from Indonesia and South Africa.
“It’s also important to me that the shop offers something families can afford. To do that, I need to include imported fish.”
In its first month, Gwelup Fish and Chips has drawn steady crowds, with locals dropping in for takeaway or settling into one of the small dine-in tables. The mix includes curious neighbours and loyal followers from Doubleview Bowling Club, Magnolia BBQ, Mane Liquor and earlier pop-ups.
Standouts so far include the spicy fish burger, prawn tacos and snapper, alongside a popular $30 meal for two.
With Jacob balancing consulting and guest chef roles across Perth, Singapore and Vietnam, Anisha has turned to family for support. Her sister Leya, who worked with her during the Landsdale years, has joined the team.
“She’s a great help. She knows me better than I know myself.”
At home, Anisha leans towards the whole fish.
“At the fishmongers I usually go for a small whole fish, like foxfish, bream or baby snapper. I’ll deep fry it and eat it with steamed rice and an onion, chilli, lemon juice and sweet soy dressing.”
Weekly specials may nod to Anisha and Jacob’s Indonesian, Malaysian, Singaporean, Armenian and Burmese heritage, or simply reflect dishes they feel like cooking.
“I’d love to make an ebi burger,” she says. “I also want to bring back the deep-fried lasagne we did at the bowls club. We could even do Cantonese steamed fish. We’re keeping things open.”
Gwelup Fish and Chips is open Wednesday to Sunday for dinner from 4pm to 8pm, and Friday lunch from 12pm to 2pm. Phone 6150 8613.
