At first glance, Ginza Nana Alley looks like a cinematic set piece. Lanterns glowing low, handwritten signs in hiragana, and a chorus of soft greetings from behind the counter. But step further in and you’ll discover something deeper: an echo of Japan’s yokocho culture transplanted into the heart of Perth’s CBD.
For Daisuke Hiramatsu, the alley’s owner-operator and the man behind Hifumiya and Jigoro, Ginza Nana is personal. “There are a lot of good memories from my childhood,” he says. “And so many of those memories are around yokocho.” In Japan, yokocho are compact alleys lined with bars and eateries, where office workers unwind elbow-to-elbow over skewers, sake, and stories. “It’s a small town in itself. Some people might come to the café in the morning, others for yakitori and beer after work. We wanted this to be part of people’s daily life.”
He’s succeeded. The 70-seat indoor space houses five venues, each with its own chef, offering and ritual, but all united by Daisuke’s vision of everyday Japanese culture, elegantly and faithfully reproduced. Here’s how to navigate it.
Start With Ramen
If you’ve never tried Onomichi-style ramen, you’re not alone. “Most ramen shops here are tonkotsu or chicken-based,” says Akinori Kuroda, venue manager at Onomichi Ramen Mitsuya. “But this is the first ramen shop in Perth doing fish broth-based ramen.”
Onomichi ramen hails from Hiroshima Prefecture, close to Daisuke’s hometown, Kurashiki. The broth blends dehydrated fish such as sardines and bonito with chicken bones, then deepens with a tare made from three types of soy sauce and fat from house-boiled char siu pork. “We let the pork sit in the tare for several hours to build more flavour,” says Kuroda. “The finishing touch is pork lard. I always ask for extra.”
“Sometimes ramen is too heavy,” adds Daisuke. “But Onomichi-style is more balanced. You can eat it any time of day.” Even the noodles are made with local WA wheat.
Pull Up a Seat at the Yakitori Grill
At Yakitori Washokudo, chef Naoyuki Suzuki (ex-James Parker) grills each skewer to order over binchotan charcoal. “It’s all about balance: juicy meat, crisp skin, and the right seasoning,” he says. Every cut gets its due: crisp chicken skin grilled low and slow; tenderloin requiring a lighter touch; gizzards for their toothsome chew.
“Yakitori is simple,” says Yasu, “but it takes precision. We choose whether to season with salt or tare depending on the cut.” Their tare is a simmered blend of soy sauce, sake and mirin, enriched with local vegetables.
Order a mix of skewers: bonjiri (chicken tail), tsukune (meatballs), torikawa (skin) – then add a cold beer or a dry junmai sake. Or both.
Reserve a Spot at the Oden Counter
For something quieter, slower and more refined, book a seat at Ginza Midai. This 12-seat kappo-style oden bar is the star of the alley: serene, focused, deeply Japanese. “Every day, I make dashi from chicken bones, kombu and bonito separately,” says chef Midai Hatakeyama. “Then I combine them into a clear, elegant broth.”
That clarity extends to the ingredients. Daikon takes three days to prepare. Stuffed cabbage rolls and beef tendon are simmered gently until they tremble on the plate. One standout is the tsukune: subtle, juicy, seasoned with restraint.
While oden is the main attraction, the rest of the menu more than earns its place. There’s potato salad with smoked daikon and anago; grilled wagyu steak with foie gras and sansho sauce; and pressed sushi made with fatty, full-flavoured Ehime sumakatsuo, lightly grilled over charcoal to accentuate its richness with a touch of smoke.
The setting allows for real connection. “Kappo-style means we can introduce each dish, talk about ingredients, and see the guest’s reaction immediately,” Hatakeyama says. His cooking quietly reflects his time at Ginza Oden Ore-no Dashi in Tokyo, filtered through WA produce. “Australian ingredients have a bolder character. I’m learning from them every day.”
Order a Cutlet for Lunch at Kubota Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu might seem familiar, but chef Ryo’s version goes deeper. Pork from WA is breaded in freshly grated, hand-pressed panko and fried at exactly 170–180°C until the crust is golden and audibly crisp. Excess oil is drained with care to preserve that texture.
“We make the tonkatsu sauce in-house,” says Ryo, “and while the dish uses Western techniques, it’s ultimately shaped by Japanese sensibilities: attention to detail, balance, and respect for tradition.”
It’s a generous plate: warm, crunchy, rich, and satisfying.
Finish (or Begin) at Monkey & Bird
Monkey & Bird shifts identities with the sun. In the morning, it’s a kissa-style café offering matcha, hand-dripped coffee, and nostalgic sweets like purin and melon soda floats. By night, the lights dim, the records slow down, and the bar opens for shochu, umeshu, and Japanese whisky.
Purin (a creamy Japanese egg pudding finished with a bittersweet caramel glaze) is the heart of the offering. Think crème caramel, but gentler, and perfectly matched with coffee or whisky. “It works with any drink and any situation,” says Yasu.
The vibe is casual but considered, providing a moment of pause between the other venues or a destination of its own.
For a pre-dinner aperitif, try the umeshu. “Its acidity stimulates appetite, helps with digestion, and pairs beautifully with Japanese food,” Yasu says. Or just drop in after work and let the rhythm of the alley unfold around you.
Ginza Nana Alley is open twelve hours a day, every day. That’s not just for convenience—it’s part of the yokocho spirit. “Everyone uses this space in their own way,” says Daisuke. “That’s what I love about it. That’s what we wanted to bring here.”
Read more: Perth’s Best Japanese Restaurants