Twenty-two years is a long time to do something really well, and there are few producers who have been able to ride the highs and lows of the hospitality industry, the changing economy, global pandemics and ever-changing tastes for that long, let alone do something quite remarkable across all those years.
But that is the reality for Cambray Cheese, a small, family-owned and operated cheesemaker and dairy that has been making some of Western Australia’s best cheese since early 2004. Today, Cambray Cheese produces as many as 30 cheeses in a year, with their own livestock, sheep and cattle, raised on farm for the milk that is at the heart of their fresh cheeses.
In 1995, Bruce and Jane Wilde stepped foot onto their idyllic plot of land on the outskirts of Nannup (three hours south of Perth) for the first time, with the plan to open and run a dairy. It took nearly a decade for full cheese production to come to fruition, with the former police officer and nurse taking the time to establish a healthy flock of Friesian milking sheep, and to build a production facility.
As is often the case, the wait was worth it, and Cambray Cheese grew into a trusted local supplier servicing not only their hometown but surrounding farmers’ markets too. Now, the artisanal producer has a reputation for some of WA’s finest cheeses, a reputation they’ve held for some time.
Today, the Wildes’ son Tom, his partner Maddie and a small team are at the helm of operations and cheesemaking, continuing to build on the craft and foundations established by the now semi-retired couple all those years ago.
“Bruce still keeps busy on the farm, helping to milk and do odd jobs, and during the busy seasons we often have seasonal workers help out too. We’re a small family business and I make all the cheeses at the minute, and we also juggle the workload of the farm on the non-cheesemaking days as well,” explains Tom.
That farm isn’t a small one either, with 160 acres of land not only home to the Wilde family, but their 400 or so head of milking sheep, a dozen cattle, fruit trees and a farm stay, with two quaint cottages nestled in untouched bush and rolling pasture surrounds.
“It’s like running five businesses sometimes, with cheesemaking, the farm, cottages, distribution, and now the meat too,” Tom says.
Processing their own animals for meat is a relatively new venture for Cambray, an idea that came about as consumer interest in knowing the origins of their food continues to grow, something Cambray knows all too well thanks to their cheesemaking endeavours.
“I guess it came about as we’ve had people asking a lot where they can find good meat from a farmer they know and trust. Our beef and lamb are free of chemicals, no herbicides, no insecticides, no hormones, no vaccines, no drenches.”
“The setup for cheese has allowed us a market, and also the infrastructure to be able to add the beef and lamb to our offerings quite easily. We are still in the early stages, so only have a small offering when it’s available.”
But as the Cambray farm diversifies, good cheese is still at the heart of what they do. Each batch is made from 100% farm-sourced sheep or cows’ milk, with Tom crafting not only a core offering of 10-15 cheeses (like Gouda, Camembert and Parmesan) but experimenting year-round to produce a total of around 30 different cheeses in any one year.
While producing so many cheeses affords consumers plenty of variety, Tom ensures each cheese is produced to exacting standards and made as conscientiously as possible, with the milk, the seasons and consumer demand often dictating what is, or isn’t, produced. Even waste is carefully thought about with each cheese produced, with unneeded whey making its way to pasture to help nourish the soils that will grow the grass, to feed the sheep that will eventually be milked for the next round of cheese.
For the better part of the last twenty-two years, many of those cheeses have won not only favour with chefs and gourmands, but also a long list of awards. Most recently, the Cambray team took out six trophies at the Perth Royal Food Awards, in recognition of their commitment to their unique paddock to plate philosophy.
“It’s great to have the recognition, but it’s also a great advert for us; we get some good exposure through most of the awards and it’s a good morale boost for us and our staff.”
Tom continues. “There aren’t many cheese factories around, but there are even fewer who milk their own animals, make the cheese and sell and distribute themselves. I guess we are a true paddock to plate business.”
It’s an important distinction for Cambray Cheese that they’re a ‘true’ paddock to plate business. Back in 1995 when Cambray Cheese was an idea percolating in the minds of Bruce and Jane Wilde, provenance, at least in a local sense, wasn’t as valued as it is now in Australian dining. Their intentions weren’t driven by social media clout, premium pricing or the explicit goal of landing on menus at revered dining establishments. They did it because it yielded a superior product, and it felt like the right way to do it.
That ethos has stood the test of time. In fact, over all those years, the paddock to plate movement and the general idea of restaurants sourcing whatever they can from close by have rapidly grown around them. But without too much fanfare, Cambray has steadily continued producing cheese with a reputation that has stretched far beyond the tiny, regional town it hails from.
Now, Cambray Cheese is readily available at specialty cheese shops and grocers and features regularly on restaurant menus across the state. Often, their cheese is proudly mentioned by name, akin to some of the world’s famed and iconic ingredients, like prosciutto di San Daniele, Manjimup truffle or Ortiz anchovies. It is also not uncommon to see a Cambray cheese (like the Petit Fromage, Fetta or Boursan) feature as the hero ingredient on a dish, with chefs showing a deep gratitude and respect for their quality.
While the cheese that Cambray has been producing for the past couple of decades is certainly worthy of the awards, the praise and the attention of the chefs helming some of the state’s best restaurants, one of the more admirable qualities of their operation is their integrity, commitment to quality and authenticity. Where others build the brand then figure out the story to go along with it, Cambray Cheese has consistently let the story unfold organically over generations, set to the backdrop of their quaint Nannup farm.