Lulu La Delizia 2023 Winner

Lulu La Delizia isn’t the state’s fanciest restaurant. It’s not serving high-concept food, the tables aren’t clothed in white, and the service isn’t fawning. But this Subiaco pasta bar, open since 2016, has those intangible qualities that make a restaurant great. One part of it is consistency, another is knowing just how much is enough with dishes that are elevated but never overwrought, and then there’s the charm of floor staff who hit their marks then bring personality around it. Backing it all is a drinks program that’s both democratic and interesting at the same time. Whether you’re sharing plump, sharply seasoned meatballs or al dente spaghettini twirled through clams, white wine and bitter spigarello with clinging sauce, everything is dependably comforting and precise, the room – featuring pendant lights and warm woods – cosy and inviting. Finally, there’s the team, led by chef-restaurateur Joel Valvasori, that continues to evolve with the times. An enchanting, deserving winner.